Sunday, 22 February 2015

Locating: Final Evaluation

Starting with the live brief, for me this was the Apron project: I began by re-visiting the Downing Archive, thoroughly analysing photographs taken there. This developed a vast amount of initial research and ideas to develop from, combining this with the assessment comments from the Intentions unit I decided to outline the aims of this project other than those stated in the brief. This included;
 - Samples becoming too similar due to the restrictions of chosen techniques.
 - Exploring colour and scale more.
The strengths of my work that were reviewed and highlighted were the layering of techniques and fabrics and combining hand and machine techniques.
The outline of the Apron project was to produce an Apron to develop both making and design skills. We were told to think outside the box.
Therefore after research at Platt Hall expanding understanding of Aprons, their uses and backgrounds, I decided to combine all of my research: taking forward the drawings I did of ribbons and trimmings and the Apron from Platt Hall which was embellished with various embroidered ribbons and trimmings.
Downing Archive - Drawings.

Platt Hall - Apron.
The concept for this project was again taken forward from the Downing Archive, the samples that I initially drew from were Japanese, therefore I researched into Japanese fashions and garments for help in locating my function for the Apron - the most occurent garment was the Kimono, in particular the heavily embellished and decoratively patterned ones. This helped to make the decision into making an Apron that was decorative, but using practical materials. It was aimed at a young adult age range using contextual references from fashion brands like All Saints (the Apron was to be a simple a-line skirt shape like the style of All Saints).
I started sampling by choosing materials similar to the textures in my images, these were all diffrernt tones of pink (that were found in my drawings) this included; satin, silk, velvet, chiffon and cottons. The shapes of my samples were similar to ribbons, just varying the width for help with compositional elements. I decided to use the cornelly to create a base onto my materials before beading and hand stitching to embellish and create a more textured surface.
Concentrating on the 'patchwork and trimming' element of my designs, I explored the Japanese technique of BORO, where materials are re-used, layered and constructed into another garment with the aid of hand stitch. From this I created a collage to help visualise the outcome before sampling. However I still needed more inspiration for the embellishment part, which is when I found the art of Kintsugi - fixing broken things with gold to aggrandise them and to make them more beautiful. Which is when I discovered the artist Junko Oki he uses embellishments on the edges and seams of materials to fix them together.
After sampling, focusing on compositional elements and research I constructed my Apron, however although I enjoyed creating this and beading onto materials, when evaluating it myself in the pin-up sessions I'm once again lacking in colour exploration.


Therefore when I started with initial ideas for the Self-Initiated brief I decided I was going to focus on colour and texture, which involved material and thread choices.
Instead of collating new research and finding a definite starting point I wanted to again use previous images from the Downing archive. Choosing my favourite image to analyse and question myself with what attracted me to the image.
Sample book cover.
The texture and different metallic colours within this book cover had a certain depth to it which I wanted to recreate through 'drawing' and layering ideas. Using lateral thinking I started to 'draw' from distressed and layered ribbons.
I started with colour blocking and yarn choices, creating yarn wraps by combining different threads to replicate the tonal ranges. These colours were somewhat iridescent, for me to achieve the visual ideas in my head I started to apply colour to material. I did this by selecting various coloured foils to bond-a-web and distress onto pleated linen material.
Pleating linen, layering foils with bond-a-web, distressing with sand paper and repeting the process.

After making some constructive surfaces I want to next explore constructive embroidery and fabric manipulation to further work into, steering away from embellishments for now.
My only regret for this project was bad time management and how long I left myself to complete it, however, I wouldn't be producing work and locating myself as a designer without having produced the Apron project first. The Intentions unit feedback helped me to develop the Apron project and then both helped with the Self-Initiated in the respect that colour was a big obstacle for me and I feel that the Locating unit has definitely helped develop that. 
Even after the few samples that I have produced I have different techniques in mind to produce future samples; reverse applique, kantha embroidery, quilting etc.
I would also like to further research into the iridescence of butterfly wings and the colours and textures through this, which would hopefully help locate my practice a bit further than a textiles designer for both fashion and interiors. 

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