Week 7: Tailor Tacking & Hair Pinning

Tailor Tacking is a technique used by dressmakers to transfer pattern markings from the tissue pattern, onto the fabric. The idea is to leave a temporary thread marker in place to mark construction details like darts, bust points, zip placements etc. Once the dressmaker has no further need for them, (ie they have constructed that part of the garment) they are simply pulled out and discarded.

In this instance I will be using tailor tacking to create surface pattern and texture across fabric to replicate visual research within the 'Data' project.  Depending on the threads and fabric chosen, tailor tacking can create different effects, sometimes by using the same colours together (fabric & thread) you can create a subtle surface that could then later be worked into, like the sample below...

Here just by changing the tension on the top thread and by pulling and working the threads, it can make it seem like a completely different technique. For instance the above sample has parts that connote Hair Pinning. 

Hair Pinning is a technique used to create texture or a decorative pattern on whatever amount of surface you desire. Created using a Zipper foot! For this I used the end of a metal coathanger that had been cut to size, you then wrap the thread around in a figure eight motion. This technique requires a lot of thought about which thread you choose, as some may seem more flat and dull than others - this technique really worked for me as I could transfer the linear mark making drawings from my sketchbook into my embroidery quite easily. This technique allowed me to draw with the sewing machine.

Hair Pinning with a thick wool thread.

Hair Pinning and Tailor Tacking

The above sample is a combination of both techniques and although I didin't stick to my colour scheme of white on white, I found that this worked to an advantage as it had the auora of one of my drawings and the scrachy feel it creates reminds me perfectly of the rigid lines in the limpet shells.